Chai, Chai by Biswanath Ghosh – A Unique Journey Through India’s Forgotten Railway Towns
🚂 Introduction: A Different Kind of Travel Book
When most people think of travel books about India, they picture bustling cities, famous landmarks, or remote villages. But Biswanath Ghosh, in his delightful book Chai, Chai: Travels in Places Where You Stop But Never Get Off, takes a completely fresh approach.
This is not a guide to where to go — it’s a meditation on where we never think to go.
Published in 2009, Chai, Chai is a travelogue with a twist. It explores small Indian towns that exist as railway junctions — places we pass through during long train journeys but never actually stop to experience.
🧳 Book Summary: What Is Chai, Chai About?
In Chai, Chai, Biswanath Ghosh decides to visit places like Itarsi, Mughal Sarai (now Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction), Jhansi, Guntakal, Arakkonam, and Shoranur — stations that millions of travelers pass through but rarely explore.
Ghosh’s idea is simple yet profound: What happens beyond the platform? Who lives in these towns, and what are their stories?
With curiosity, humor, and a journalist’s eye for detail, he wanders through these dusty towns, talking to locals, sipping chai, and documenting his quiet discoveries. Each chapter is a gentle unraveling of the lives, quirks, and untold histories of these junction towns.
📚 Why Chai, Chai Stands Out in Indian Travel Literature
Unlike fast-paced or exotic travelogues, Chai, Chai is unhurried. Its beauty lies in its simplicity and observational depth. It doesn’t glamorize — it humanizes.
Here’s what makes it special:
🔍 1. Focus on Overlooked India
Most travel writing centers around tourist spots. Ghosh, however, shines a light on India’s in-between places, making the mundane feel meaningful.
🧠 2. Part Memoir, Part Journalism
Ghosh blends personal anecdotes, historical context, and sociocultural observations in a style that feels both warm and informative.
🫖 3. Universal Appeal Through Local Lenses
Whether you’re an Indian familiar with train travel or a foreign reader interested in India’s layers, the book resonates through its deep engagement with ordinary life.
📍 Featured Railway Towns in Chai, Chai
Each chapter focuses on one railway junction. Some of the key places covered:
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Mughalsarai (Uttar Pradesh)
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Jhansi (Uttar Pradesh)
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Itarsi (Madhya Pradesh)
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Guntakal (Andhra Pradesh)
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Arakkonam (Tamil Nadu)
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Shoranur (Kerala)
These aren’t glamorous destinations — and that’s exactly the point.
✨ Who Should Read Chai, Chai?
This book is perfect for:
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Fans of Indian travel writing
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Readers who enjoy narrative non-fiction
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People curious about life beyond India’s metros
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Anyone nostalgic about Indian Railways
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Writers and journalists looking for storytelling inspiration
📝 About the Author: Biswanath Ghosh
Biswanath Ghosh is a well-known Indian journalist, columnist, and travel writer. Apart from Chai, Chai, his other notable books include:
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Tamarind City: Where Modern India Began
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Longing, Belonging: An Outsider at Home in Calcutta
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Aimless in Banaras
His writing is often praised for its conversational tone, cultural insight, and quiet depth — qualities that make him one of India’s most beloved narrative non-fiction voices.
✅ Conclusion: A Journey Worth Taking
Chai, Chai is not just a travel book — it’s a celebration of overlooked places and unnoticed lives. It gently challenges us to pause, observe, and value what lies between point A and point B.
If you’ve ever looked out of a train window and wondered what life is like just beyond the station, this book is your answer.
